This week I got three things done; I timed my camshaft, determined the correct pushrod length for my engine and hung some hanging storage in my garage.
Timing the camshaft means making sure that the cam that you installed is the cam that you ordered. I didn't get too deep into it but the numbers that I got match the camcard. There are lots of different ways to time a cam. I put a couple that I read together and came up with this one.
1. I mounted a timing wheel on my crankshaft and made a crude coat hanger pointer to point at it (witness my brilliant coat hanger craftsmanship - you wouldn't believe the numbers of things I've made from wire coat hangers over the years).
2. I found exact (as close as I could get) Top Dead Center. First you rotate the crank until the number one cylinder looks like it's at TDC and point your pointer at 'TDC' on the timing wheel. Then you set a micrometer on the deck to measure how deep the #1 cylinder is in it's bore and zero it.
Rotate the crank so that the piston drops. Stop when the micrometer reads .050 and take a reading on the timing wheel (in my case I got 11 degrees after TDC). Then rotate the crank in the opposite direction until the mic reads .050 again and take another reading on the degree wheel (this time I got 10 degrees before TDC). Subtract the smaller number from the bigger one and divide by 2 (11-10=1, 1/2=.5). That means my initial guess at where TDC is was .5 degrees off (pretty dang close if I do say so myself). In my case it was easier to adjust my pointer than to turn the timing wheel so I moved my pointer .5 degrees towards the bigger number (after TDC). I ran the test again to make sure I was right and got 10.5 above and 10.5 below so the pointer is correct.
3. Next you do the exact same thing with the #1 cylinder intake lifter (start at TDC). I dropped a lifter in and adjusted my mic (I assume I'm calling it the right thing - I think it might actually be called a bore micrometer - ask a machinist) so that the tip of the measurer (another technical term) rested on the solid upward edge of the lifter.
I gather that you don't want it resting on the inside face because the faceted surface can yield an inaccurate measurement. Then you rotate the crank until the lifter comes all the way up and starts to go back down. Zero the mic at the highest point and then rotate the crank to .05 on the mic and read the timing wheel (I got 150.5 degrees after TDC).
Then reverse the crank until the mic reads .05 again and read the timing wheel (66.5 degrees after TDC).
Now add the measurements and divide by 2 (150.5 + 66.5 = 217, 217 / 2 = 108.5). Check the camcard that came with the cam for a measurement called 'Intake center line'. This should match your calculation. Mine did.
I have a crank timing gear that allows for adjustments 4 degrees forward and 4 degrees back so if I had been off by four degrees I could have used that to correct things. Another problem could have been that I didn't have my gear timing marks lined up correctly when I installed the timing chain. Fortunately I don't have to mess with any of that. If I wanted to be more thorough I could have measured the duration to really confirm my cam timing but I'm going to take my chances.
Next I determined the correct pushrod length for my engine. From what I gather the only time you can trust that your pushrods are the correct length is when you have a bone stock engine. Mine isn't stock by any stretch. It was difficult finding a way to take this measurement for two reasons; 1. I'm using a set of pedestal mount rocker heads (pedestal mount heads are actually easier to adjust but it was difficult finding any reliable instructions on how to do it) and 2. I'm using hydraulic lifters. Hydraulic lifters are designed to collapse under valve spring pressure when the engine is turning slowly (like when you're turning the crank by hand). Most guys will replace the hydraulic lifter with a solid lifter or modify one of their hydro lifters to act like a solid lifter by packing it with washers, tack welding it or soaking it in oil. Instead of all that I found some 'tester' springs that are a lot lighter than real valve springs so they won't collapse the lifters.
I want to say they cost less than $10. I put a pair on the number one cylinder head and ran the following procedure (BTW, make sure that the head gasket has the word, "Front" at the front).
1. Drop a lifter in the intake lifter slot for the number one piston at TDC (that way the lifter is all the way down.
2. Get an adjustable pushrod length checker and drop it into the lifter making sure that the ball on the rod is seated in the lifter. I have three adjustable pushrods that are different lengths. I chose one the longest one that was still short enough to not touch the rocker when fully shortened.
3. Color the end of the intake valve where it will contact the rocker with a felt tip pen (most guys use Sharpies but that didn't work for me, either because I'm using roller rockers or because of the low pressure of the tester springs).
4. Install the rocker arm and torque it to the correct torque (in my case 20 ft lbs).
5. Now back the rocker arm up 3/4 of a turn and adjust your adjustable push rod until it can't be moved up and down any more (zero lash). Make sure that the ball on the end of the pushrod is seated in the rocker arm cup.
6. Torque the rocker back down again. It should take about 3/4 of a turn to hit your number. If it takes more than 1 turn something has gone terribly wrong - god help you cause I can't! If it does take less than 1 full turn than you have successfully set your lifter preload and determined your pushrod length (maybe).
7. Finally, rotate the crank so that the rocker is actuated several times and then pull the rocker and check the valve tip where you marked it with a marker. There should be a thin strip where the ink has been rubbed off centered on the tip. If it's a wide strip (see the internet for examples) or it's well off center (or both) try adjusting the length of the pushrod. If that doesn't work you'll need a longer or shorter rocker arm or some shims under the rocker arm. Once again you're on your own. I didn't have to deal with this because my strip was thin and centered (I wanted to include a picture of it but I couldn't get it to show up on camera).
Lastly, check out this hanging storage thingy I found for $120.
It's a pretty cool way to make more room in your garage but its a typical cheap Chinese POC. About half of the holes were hand drilled and didn't line up (requiring re-drilling on my part). Some of the hardware was so poorly made that the nuts wouldn't screw onto the bolts. I didn't bother to determine whether the problem was with the nuts or the bolts, just replaced 'em. The instructions were pretty well written for a translation but some of the illustrations sucked and there was one confusing part. Also, the crank mates pretty poorly with the drive box so that when using a drill in the attached video you can hear a screeching metal on metal noise as the crank machines away the surface of the adapter on the drive box. Oh well. Buy American if you want quality (and if you can). I'll be using this lift (and one more) to make room for all of my car parts when the kit arrives (can't freakin' get here soon enough!!!).
